ALL I WANT TO BE: THE FIRST BOOK BY GUCCI BEAUTY’S THOMAS DE KLUYVER
Whenever Thomas de Kluyver is involved in anything, you can bet your bottom-dollar that it will be interesting and, above all, avant-gardist. If you haven’t heard of him yet, you can read about the first Gucci Beauty make-up campaign here. Creative Director Alessandro Michele and his new Global Make-up-Artist advertised their first lipstick collection with photos of gap-tooth mouths, yellow teeth and other so-called “beauty flaws”.
And now with this publication, Thomas de Kluyver is reinforcing his belief that beauty flaws are the new beauty ideals. Beautiful is whatever you are and whatever you want to be. And the title of the book, ‘All I Want To Be’, very much reflects this.
Instagood, but different!
The publication is highly aesthetic yet astonishingly liberating. If we compare Instagram to a digital corset on beauty ideals, then Thomas De Kluyver is doing everything in his power to unlace it. His book is saying goodbye to Insta-fuelled perfection and hello to imperfections, quirks and cutting-edge looks.
The models’ bodies don’t live up to the prescribed ideas of beauty, their faces are expressive, and the applied make-up tells the protagonists’ individual stories. The colour palette is poppy, warm, cold and dramatic and the make-up application technique unusual. Neon colours meet voluptuous curves and earthy tones meet pale faces. In good old 90s style, vivid colours adorn the eyes and even the dreaded lipstick on the teeth makes an appearance!
De Kluyver credits 90s make-up icons like PJ Harvey and Courtney Love as his inspiration. Before joining the ranks of Gucci, he worked for Sies Marjan, Kenzo, Opening Ceremony and Jil Sander. For his book project, he collaborated with six photographers who also happen to be good friends of his, including Harley Weir and Lea Columbo.
This ultimate coffee table book is published by Idea Books Ltd. And, for those of you heading to the British metropolis any time soon, it’s also available from Dover Street Market in London.
Text: Deborah Roth