WHAT A PITTI – The best outfits fresh from Firenze!
To present its spring/summer 2020 collection, Italian fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo returned to its home turf. As well as the delicate colour palette of pastel tones, something else that really caught our eye was the artistic prints on tops and outerwear depicting Neptune, the god of the sea – a homage to the city of Florence, and in particular to the Fountain of Neptune on the Piazza della Signoria. The Pitti Uomo crowd was also demonstrating a particular penchant for large prints on casually tailored shirts in both short and long-sleeved variations. Also making an appearance were artificial prints on fine linen and art prints on a pastel background, which require the utmost precision and expertise.
Another highlight at the menswear tradeshow was the ‘I Go Out’ fashion show, a presentation of the latest trend outpourings from the contemporary fashion world. Function meets casual basics; streetwear meets laid-back utility influences. And it’s the latter that’s really striking a chord: safari and workwear styles are currently all the rage. This casual look is being interpreted by safari shirts with a military and camouflage look, as well as laid-back denims, not to mention XXL cargo pants and linen trousers, which are also riding high in the fashion stakes. To ensure the right proportions, simply add a belt.
With a spotlight on casual menswear classics like the pinstripe look, designer Marco de Vincenzo presented his first menswear collection in a tropical greenhouse. Just think laid-back, contemporary clothing for the man of the world who appreciates quality and tailoring. This look also proved popular with the Pitti people, and it wasn’t only the infamous ‘peacocks’ donning the modified striped look, but proponents of neo-Classicism have also been catapulting the striking print back into the trend charts – either in an all-over look or a highlight detail.
Another special guest at Pitti Uomo was men’s and womenswear label S.R. Studio. LA. CA. Its creative director is artist Sterling Ruby, who gained renown for his collaboration with Raf Simons on Calvin Klein’s former 205NYC39 line. In Florence he presented a collection inspired by various textile techniques and artificial craftsmanship. And a lot of Pitti’s visitors also seemed to be inspired by the “Let art rule!” theme, proudly sporting brightly coloured streetwear styles featuring graffiti, batik and Jackson Pollock-style sprinkles that really made them stand out from the rest of the tradeshow crowd.
Text: Deniz Trosdorff